Pre-Incan Roots

I managed to catch quite the nasty cold last week, and I even had to stay home from work for part of Thursday and Friday, but by Saturday midday, I really needed to get out of the apartment. I decided to go check out one of Lima's pyramids. Lima is named after one of the early societies to settle in this area.

The pyramid from the main Plaza.

The Lima people started building around 200 AD, and they were later taken over by the Wari around 600 AD. This was all before the Incas conquered most of the region in the 1400s.

Huaca Pucllana, the name of the pyramid, was the religious and ceremonial center of the Lima complex, which also included a grand plaza, administrative buildings, and homes of the elite. Most other people lived in the surrounding area in less auspicious structures. Lima was a great place to settle because it had the freshwater source of the Rimac river and the ocean for fishing nearby.

A view of Miraflores on the way up

Lima is also susceptible to earthquakes, so it was initially a difficult place to build larger structures. Incredibly, the Lima architects developed a technique of stacking bricks in alternating diagonal structures, giving the pyramid a flexible reinforcement when earthquakes shook the structure. They also stacked bricks in alternating patterns horizontally to give it more flexibility. The new techniques meant that they could continue to build a larger pyramid around the smaller one that already stood. 

I didn't manage to get a photo of the diagonal structures, but it is sort of visible at the bottom of this shot...

Most pyramid tombs in the other cultures are hollow to allow access to those who are buried, but the Lima pyramids are solid throughout the structure. This is because they were build over time, and thus solid layer was build over solid layer. Therefore as you excavate each layer you would discover a new slew of tombs from that period.

A tomb from the Wari period

The tombs they that have excavated (only about a third of the pyramid has been excavated and is open to visit) show burial of people with their livelihoods. Weavers were buried with yarn, potters with pottery, etc. The pyramid continued to grow even after the Wari took over so there is a mixing of Wari and Lima style tombs. The points of transition is what mostly has allowed archaeologists to have a clear idea of when the Wari assumed power in the area.

Beyond the actual pyramid, there was also a sample farm and animal enclosure that showed the dominant crops and animals that these societies cultivated.

There was your typical Peruvian fare like beans, corn, coca, and wheats. As well as Andean ducks, llamas and al pacas. Llamas are apparently larger than al pacas, so they were used as pack animals, whereas al pacas were exclusively used for their fur and milk. There was also cotton plants that grew various hues of orange and red cotton that were used for weavings. Unfortunately, they weren't in bloom so I couldn't get a picture of it.

There was very few dyes and paints used in Lima and Wari weavings, pottery and architecture. The only evidence of a dye that has been found is a mineral-based yellow dye that was thought to have covered the entire pyramid at its height. This was also used for pottery, but more common was painting with a "negative" technique, which involved covering parts of the pots as they were heated, creating a lighter coloring on the protected surfaces.

The upper plaza that is thought to have been the site of human sacrifices.

Human sacrifice was also thought to be a regular event, and this upper plaza was used for most of the ceremonies. It is thought that most of the tombs in the lower plaza were sacrifice victims and regular burials were conducted elsewhere.

It's been really fun to learn about the long list of societies that rose and fell before the Spanish arrived. Huaca Pucllana is just one of many pyramids and structures that survive in the area, and one of the few that has a dedicated excavation ongoing. They are slated to start a few others, but there are just too many. As recently as 2012, they discovered the remains of a new set of ruins while digging for the structure of a new building. That begins to show you why Peru is labeled one of the world's "cradles of civilization".

Next up: Pre-colombian artifacts and more archaeological history

Vecina Miraflores

I am now officially a resident of Lima city! I moved into my depa (apt) on Saturday and have since been settling into my new digs.

My new place is on the west side of Miraflores, a mere 2 blocks from an ocean-side park. If I had to choose a long-term place to live here, this place would almost be it Pictures are at the end of the post!

After a weekend of getting things in order, I think I finally am set up at home. I spent most of Saturday and Sunday (when I wasn't getting supplies) exploring the neighborhood. 

If you walk north from my place, there is a plaza with almost entirely American establishments that I rarely visit, which is a bit weird. McDonald's. KFC (which is very popular here), TGIFridays, Chili's. Starbucks (with valet parking, I might add). Which I actually do go to because free wifi! There as also even an authorized iStore for Apple products. The only non-American venue is the grocery store, Wong's. I don't know if it's just because I'm a foreigner, but people always seem to describe stores to me in terms of what origin its owners are. And people always want to point out the Chinese, Arab, and Jewish stores the most. I was expecting more Japanese stores, considering the large Japanese population in Peru, but I have yet to see any other than the occassional sushi bar.

However getting away from Ovalo Americano, if you head east, the neighborhood is full of great things to do. I just joined the neighborhood listserve which has a ton of free events, from art shows to plays to movie screenings. And crazy enough, most of it is free. There's even a Mario Vargas Llosa tour that you know I'm going to have to do. And there is public art almost everywhere.

On Sunday, a friend of my mom's was in town and suggested we go down to the beach to the fish market for lunch. While the Humboldt current results in a plethora of sardines in the waters around Lima throughout the winter (making Peru one of the biggest sardine exporter in the world), most of the fishing is actually done near the Chilean border. 

Chorrillos is an entirely artisan fishery. These fishermen ride 7-9 hours EACH WAY to get to their fishing sites. Given that Peru-Chile border waters is such a draw for both Peruvian and Chilean fishermen, there is a big risk of overfishing. They said that there is always a plethora of coast guard ships around to ensure that no one crosses the maritime border to fish in the others' waters, and one can only hope that the regulations in place for overfishing are effective as both nationalities try to fish as much as they can before the fish cross the border. I asked, but no one had an answer for me other than "there is some kind of agreement."

Chorriilos sells a staggering array of fish (I only got a pic of a smaller stand, but it has sea urchin!). In addition to a fish market, there is also a bunch of resturants where you can eat fresh fish on the beach. We tried a spicy fish soup called Parihuela, which was good, but we but were disappointed when they held back the spice for us gringas. Probably some of the freshest fish I've had though.

Any leftover fish were fed to eager Pelicans.

We took a boat ride into the ocean to see some more of the coast, but we mostly only saw the grey coastline that is a constant during winter, and the uneventful private sailing club next door. 

Also as you can kind of see below, the pelicans and seagulls hang out on the boats when they aren't being used to sunbathe. They say being pooped on is good luck, and given the level of bird poop I saw on them, these boats are really lucky.

There is a big conference this week that I am headed to, so I'll be busy again, but I have already started to plan out weekend activities to FINALLY see some of Lima's famous museums. Also I'm hoping to do a day trip to nearby ruins either this weekend or next!

Pictures of my new home:

My front door from the patio (I'm on the left)

My slightly messy living room

My kitchenette. I'm getting really good at cooking with a hot plate. At least it has a super nice espresso maker.

My bedroom.. As you might be noticing, it was hard to get photos of entire rooms. Also since this photo, I invested in a down blanket and I have never been happier with a purchase.

This is the best part, my own little garden in the back!

Professional Peruvian Volunteer

"It's easy to know what you want to say, but not to say it." - Mario Vargas Llosa

I started work on Friday. There wasn't much easing into things. One day of fun and to the office. This was nothing like working with BioItzá in Guatemala. They speak a lot of Spanish and they speak it fast.

My new desk. At least 1 person laughed at me when I took this picture.

Thankfully, I already had two days of speaking Spanish at home to prep me. I found that I could understand basically all of what people were saying to me, but I definitely initially had some trouble responding in kind.

So far everyone I have met has been great. I definitely need to get  use to the cheek-kissing as a hello. A few awkward moments when someone went in for one and I was unprepared.

My office-mate is a Belgian ex-pat who was in Peru with his wife on a spouse visa (she's an engineer so she could find work instantaneously). Apparently Peru is as bad as the US and as a spouse, you cannot work in Peru. So let me tell you from hearing about his travails, it's been hard for him to get a work visa.

Working hard

He's already shown me his favorite lunch places around. It is apparently cheaper to buy a real lunch than to try to go out and buy a sandwich. Almost everywhere has set lunch menu that costs between 6 and 9 soles that includes a fresh juice, appetizer, entree, and dessert. But more on that later. There will be an entry on food.

I had a meeting with Hugo where he gave me a run down of what I would be doing in more detail. In a very short form, the Peruvian government is preparing to implement an initiative to pay people to not cut down trees (there's more to it, but that will hold you over), and to do so they created a bunch of new institutions. These institutions are pretty untested and it's not clear they are actually representing the right people and that they have the capacity to do what they are supposed to. So I am going to help them design a study to assess: (1) how transparent and participatory they are, (2) effective the measures they have in place are to ensure no harm, and (3) if their conflict-resolution mechanisms work. So...a little intimidating.

To cap it off, I am giving presentation to the Ecosystems team this Friday. In Spanish. So...more intimidating. But this is good for me, right?

So I can't wait until Saturday, both so my presentation will be over, and because I'll be moving into a place in the actual city! (To be clear, there is Lima the district which is in Lima the Province, which is in Lima the region. All of which is distinct from Metropolitan Lima - what you would call the city of Lima - which is generally agreed to be 30 or so of the 43 districts in the Province.)

I still have not decided on a place (I am going to see the current first choice tomorrow!), but I will definitely know by the 1st, which is when I should be moving in somewhere. And then, bye-bye 1.5-2 hour daily commute each way, hello spare time. (I honestly have never appreciated Embarq more. Lima only has 1 real BRT line and it works beautifully. The city needs at least 10 more lines. And definitely extending throughout the province.)

It may be a long trip, but at least Chaclacayo is sunny!

Once I'm in the city, you guys will get more exciting updates when I actually post pictures of fun places I have visited, including the city's world-renown museum. And I definitely plan on visiting the Pre-Colombian pyramid that is just hanging out in the middle of San Isidro. Just imagine driving through the Lima equivalent of Georgetown and BOOM! Pyramid.

So exciting.

Huh, I guess I really am a hipster...

http://article.wn.com/view/2013/05/05/Who_knew_Lima_Peru_is_South_America_s_secret_new_hipster_han/#/related_news

First Post!

The beginning of my trip has been the usual ups and downs of excitement and trepidation.

As I almost always do at the beginning of a long trip, I spent most of the morning feeling like I should get out there and explore my new surroundings, but not really wanting to leave my room. But my host, Mami (my "Peruvian mother") acted as my guide on Thursday, and I got to see Colonial Lima. Peru's famous hospitality is apparently famous for a reason. I was introduced to my host family through a friend and without ever having met me, I was offered a place to stay for a week and picked up at the airport. Mami has been diligently showing me around and helping me find my way since I've gotten here.

Mami

Until I move into an apartment in the city proper, I am staying in Chaclacayo, a district about 45 minutes northeast of Lima proper. And as a result, I have become proficient in the various public transportation options available to get to and move about within the city. The easiest way into the city is to take an auto, or shared taxi, for 5 soles. The drive takes about an hour without bad traffic, and the traffic is about as bad as you'd expect it to be. Every time I think I've gotten zen about how aggressive everyone is, there is inevitably a close call where I'm sure someone's going to get injured, but really just results in a lot of yelling and honking.

There is also a really amazing BRT systems that crosses the city (the Metropolitana), and it only took 20 minutes to get clear across town in it during rush hour, which let me tell you, is quite the feat. (Traffic here sucks. Really, it sucks.)

Photo credit: http://www.subwayjoyride.com/2012/10/09/lessons-from-lima/

The old city center is kind of dingy but has gorgeous colonial architecture. Mami spent the walk educating me about Lima history. My favorite feature is that each block has its own name posted on a tile at the corner, with caligraphy that suddenly transported me back to Barcelona. (I later found out this was on purpose, and they actually have a whole park meant to look like Gaudi built it.) People tended to do the same trade if they were from the same region, so they would set up shop together. For example, "Calle de la Mantequeria de Boza" is where butter-makers from the Boza district worked. There is a downside to this, however. There whole area is pedestrian-only so there are no street names, and it is really hard to find a place when all you have to go on is that name of that one (sometimes partial) block.

This one isn´t mine. Photo credit: http://cdn4.vtourist.com/4/2335763-The_tiles_Lima.jpg

Obviously a highlight is la Plaza de Armas which was where the colonial seat of power was. It has the presidential palace, the old military barracks, the mayor's residence, and the Archbishop's palace. All in all, a great representation of the Colonial pomp. Imagine all the doors covered in silver and you have an idea of how ostentatious it was.

The Archbishop of Lima's Palace

Presidential Palace

Mayor's residence

Pathway to the old Officer's Club

Apparently for Independence Day last year, someone anonymously filled the fountain in the middle of the plaza with pisco to get people to come out and celebrate in the square. I would say you should be sure to be there next year for Independence Day, but it probably won't be happening again. It was received pretty negitively overall, as people complained that if someone was going to drop a lot of money to do a stunt like that, it should be on something useful like feeding the city's poor or improving services.

The fountain in question

In general, I've been struck by how much of a drive towards the collective good I have seen here. Lima's newest slogan is "Ciudad para Todos" and political slogans are plentiful. Just today, a man got on the bus I was riding to asked for everyone's attention. I immediately expected a story akin to those I am used to hearing in US cities (usually a petition for bus fare to get home to sick children). Instead, he most eloquently began to explain how he saw the city's infrastructures failing the poorest. He discussed how he got into advocacy after moving to the city to find a job, and he was not only unable to find a job with a livable wage, but also in a neighborhood with a tuberculosis outbreak because of a lack of sanitation services in his low income neighborhood. He was specifically soliciting donations to support him and 120 workers in his neighborhood to demand that the new, expensive hospital that was just built in their district provided treatment for tuberculosis to district residents. However, the most striking part was that almost everyone on the bus dutifully reached into their bags to donate a few soles to him.

Obviously, I can't imagine such a reaction on a DC public bus, but I haven't seen anything like that in any other major international cities either. I hope that I'll be able to learn more about the political dynamics in the city while I'm here, and how this potentially stronger affinity towards collective action interacts with a state that is largely seen as corrupt and self-interested.

Next up: I explore the new districts including Miraflores, San Isidro and Jesus Maria!